Then it's on, past the late-gothic Van Dale College, a delicate confection of pinks and whites, to Sint-Kwintenskerk, an airy gothic church perched atop a hill. All this is merely an appetiser, however, for the city's other great treasure, just a couple of streets away: the beautiful Groot Begijnhof (Schapenstraat).Like all the begijnhofs of Flanders, it's now a Unesco World Heritage Site - and a town-within-a-town of almost edible redbrick houses and convents, with an early-gothic church, Sint Jan de Doper, and two arms of the Dijle at its heart. Thankfully, amid this academic gravitas, Sint-Michielskerk retains all its baroque grandeur.A stroll through Sint-Donatuspark offers glimpses of the 12th-century town wall, with plane trees lining the former moat; the Rambergpark, at Naamsestraat 70, is another delight, the more so for being invisible from the street. Opposite this is the 18th-century anatomical theatre, a reminder of Leuven's substantial contribution to medical science: the pioneering 16th-century surgeon Vesalius studied here.You can return to the centre of town via Minderbroedersstraat: it's a left turn after the second bridge heads for another waterfront wander, or straight on, past the tower to the bustling bars of the Oude Markt. Rejoin the walk at the Grote Markt, this time heading south along Naamsestraat into the university district. Take a detour down Standonckstraat to reach the Hogeschoolplein, home to the Pope's College. It was established by Pope Adrian VI, tutor of Emperor Charles V, though you'd never be able to tell: like so many of the university buildings, it was rebuilt in the 18th century in suitably serious neoclassical style.
Once you've had your fill of industrial architecture, roll back the centuries by meandering down Halvestraat and Handbooghof, following the River Dijle, past ancient breweries and maltings, then cross the river on Brusselsestraat and take a left towards the Kruidtuin, the university's botanical garden, a marvellously manicured patch whose greenhouse groans with plants (Kapucijnenvoer 30; 00 32 16 23 24 00, open 8am-5pm daily; from 9am on Sundays). The church is at the heart of the Klein Begijnhof, established in the 13th century as a refuge for Crusader widows.North of here, via Vaartstraat, is the sprawling Stella Artois brewery, perhaps less picturesque than the Horn brewery that was established in the city in 1366 (have a look at the label and you'll see a link), but still strangely compelling. The florid 15th-century town hall, Stadhuis, is arguably Flanders' finest gothic building - and unarguably its most flamboyant. Its frills and flounces are thrown into even sharper relief by the sobriety of the nearby Sint-Pieterskerk (10am-5pm Tuesday to Saturday, 2pm-5pm on Sunday, admission: €5). All the elements of the gothic interior are in perfect harmony, but the most compelling reason to visit is the luminous Last Supper triptych by the Flemish master Dirk Bouts.
Then it's time to hit the road: the following walk can be done in a breathless day, but will be infinitely more relaxing over a weekend. Pick up a city guide for €0.50 at the tourist office in the Stadhuis (00 32 16 21 15 39; ; daily, 10am-5pm, from 1 April to 30 October, otherwise closed Sunday): the map is as precise as you'd expect from the alma mater of the cartographer Gerhardus Mercator.Head north along pretty Mechelsestraat, (try Profiel, Mechelsestraat 37 for the latest Antwerp fashions and Elsen, at number 36, for cheeses and picnic produce), to Sint-Gertrudiskerk and its delightful 15th-century spire. Then, once you're settled, Belgian beer in hand, it'll take something special to shift you...But shift you must, because Leuven has far more to offer. For a start, it's a great place to assess the country's contribution to global culinary culture. And as the seat of Belgium's most prestigious university since 1425, it's a vibrant, bustling place. As soon as you arrive in Leuven, you'll be drawn to its jewel-box town hall, so intricate and exquisite you could spend hours drinking in the details - and that caf?cross the way looks the perfect spot from which to do so.